Mål: At lave en Kirk F68 om til mobil-telefon
- Blå: common
- Rød: normal closed - open n x nummer man ringer
- Hvid(gul?): normal open, closed når drejeskiven er i bevægelse
- Venstre: Blå (3-L2)
- Top/Center: Gul (1-J)
- Højre: Rød (2-L1)
- Blå: Common (7-MT)
- Rød: Højtaler (8-T)
- Gul: Mikrofon (6-M)
- Sort: 12
- Gul: 9
- 9 - 10: normal closed (lidt slidt?)
- 10 - 3-L2: normal closed
- 14 - 2-L1: normal closed
Når røret løftes, går alle i open.
- http://www.instructables.com/id/Interface-a-rotary-phone-dial-to-an-Arduino/
- https://nesdunk.dk/?cat=14
- https://www.sparkfun.com/products/retired/286 (bla. schematic til at få ringeren til at virke ser det ud til!)
- https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/51
- https://www.stavros.io/posts/irotary-saga/
- https://hackaday.com/2019/02/05/this-vintage-phone-goes-cellular/
- https://www.instructables.com/id/TOWA-Phone/
- https://github.com/Trasselfrisyr/SLIC-GSM-rotary-phone/blob/master/SLIC-GSM-rotary-phone.ino / https://hackaday.io/project/18871-cellular-conversion-of-vintage-rotary-phone Kode!
- https://lastminuteengineers.com/a6-gsm-gprs-module-arduino-tutorial/
- https://github.com/skorokithakis/A6lib
- https://hackaday.io/project/165208-an-old-rotary-phone-as-bluetooth-set
- https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/50 (Få klokken til at virke)
Fra kommentarene:
You supply two low voltage block signals; one to 1A and one to 2A. The block signals are 180 degrees out of phase. The block signals are relative to GND. By supplying a large voltage on VCC2, outputs 1Y and 2Y will provide a high voltage symmetrical block wave like so:
1A: _|¯¯¯|___|¯¯¯|___|¯¯¯|_ +5V DC relative to GND
2A: ¯|___|¯¯¯|___|¯¯¯|___|¯ +5V DC relative to GND (180 degrees out of phase compared to the signal on 1A)
1Y: _|¯¯¯|___|¯¯¯|___|¯¯¯|_ +35V DC relative to GND
2Y: ¯|___|¯¯¯|___|¯¯¯|___|¯ +35 DC relative to GND (180 degrees out of phase compared to the signal on 1Y)
By connecting the ringer directly to 1Y and 2Y you now effectively have a -35V DC to +35V DC signal.
STEP 1 - You can program an Arduino to generate two 5V 22Hz block waves 180 degrees out of phase like so:
void setup() {
//Phone ring signal is 22Hz typically. 20Hz is used in this example.
//20Hz=(1/20)*1000 = 50 milliseconds period
//50 milliseconds period = 25ms HIGH + 25ms LOW
pinMode(12, OUTPUT);
pinMode(13, OUTPUT);
}
void loop() {
//Ring pattern: RING,RING.....RING,RING.....
//RING for one second (20x 50ms = 1 sec)
//RING 1
for (int i=0; i <= 20; i++) {
digitalWrite(12, HIGH);
digitalWrite(13, LOW);
delay(25);
digitalWrite(12, LOW);
digitalWrite(13, HIGH);
delay(25);
}
//PAUSE for 0.5 seconds between first and second ring.
digitalWrite(12, LOW);
digitalWrite(13, LOW);
delay(500);
//RING 2
for (int i=0; i <= 20; i++) {
digitalWrite(12, HIGH);
digitalWrite(13, LOW);
delay(25);
digitalWrite(12, LOW);
digitalWrite(13, HIGH);
delay(25);
}
//PAUSE for 1.5 seconds
digitalWrite(12, LOW);
digitalWrite(13, LOW);
delay(1500);
}
You should now see the LED on pin13 flash at 20Hz for 1 second twice in rapid succession followed by a 1.5 second pause. pin12 carries the same signal, but 180 degrees out of phase.
STEP 2 - Build the SN754410 ‘push-pull’ symmetrical block wave circuit Simply use VCC = VCC1 = VCC2 = 5V from your Arduino for now.
STEP 3 - DC/DC converter Buy a 12V in 30V-60V-90V out DC-DC converter from eBay to provide a high voltage to VCC2 instead of the +5V DC to boost the output signal on 1Y/2Y.
STEP 4 - Increase VCC2 Finally replace VCC2 with a higher DC voltage not exceeding 35V. 1Y/2Y signal amplitude should increase accordingly.
Note: SN754410 is rated to 35V DC as stated in previous comments. Order more than one SN754410 if you are going to attempt to build this circuit.
I was able to make it work just using the SN754410 + eBay DC converter (measured output of 50V DC) + Arduino without any passive components (i.e. capacitors) at all. Just keep your finger on the SN754410 to feel if it is getting hot or not (and connect a heatsink if need be).